Out-of-town
tourists are a welcome distraction: a chance
to trade cigarettes, Marlboros for Yak Filters.
Every once in a while a shepherd gets up, takes
a stool and sits down by his buffalo.
He moistens the teats and starts milking with
slow, deliberate movements. Out of hospitality,
they offer the strangers a drink from the
bucket.
What is merely a sip of milk
for the tourists is the most precious commodity
the cattle-holders own. Nevertheless they are
willing to share it. They obviously get a lot
of enjoyment out of watching the changing faces
of unsuspecting travelers during the milk tasting
session. Fresh buffalo milk is a unique,
acquired and for most of us, probably a once-in-a-lifetime
taste. In the early evening the day's yield,
a 3-liter jug (not quite a gallon) of milk from
each animal, is brought to the communal dairy
where it is traded in for 20 rupees. That is
exactly the price of a small bottle of Coca
Cola, an extravagance tourists enjoy several
times daily without giving it a second thought.
Nepal is one of the poorest count
ries
in the Himalayas. Schools, quality-of-life,
qualified jobs are exotic terms or distant dreams.
The villages can raise their standard of living
through their own initiative and by their own
guidelines to aid in the fight against crop
failures and child labor, which are bitter fixtures
of everyday life in Nepal.
Raising the community's consciousness,
improving the village infrastructure
and income-generating solutions are the cornerstones
of the paradigm. "Village Treks"
are just one of several options to generate
income sources and prospects: however, it is
an option that is of great use to the villagers
even aside from any commercial considerations."
One of the greatest experiences
for any trekker is to get talking with the sociable
Nepalese. You may, for instance, run into
someone wandering home along a mountain path
of an evening, past irrigated palms and potato
fields.
The women get water from the river
in buckets and pass them along a human conveyor
belt to the fields.
Meanwhile, most of the villages
equipped with the infrastructure required
for community-based tourism. The villagers have
had very little contact with
outsiders
before, and visitors will be hard pushed to
find a place that has had less impact from the
negative influence of ethno-tourism. Thus, a
sense of the exceptional is present on both
sides.
The trekking paths wind
through hilly country and the towering
peaks of Annapurna and Ganesh Himal
are visible in the distance. Blessed with clear
views, October is the best time to travel. The
itinerary calls for six hours of trekking
a day and so by the end of the tour (10
days), your legs are weary, your muscles sore
and your lungs are tired of processing the pure
mountain air, but you're a lot fitter.
Meetings with the native Nepalese,
so rare on conventional travel tours,
happen again and again. The trekkers are
put up in simple tents or the houses of host
families. The kitchen is steeped in the
flickering light of oil-lamps, the tiny butane
stove won't work so the lady of the house resorts
to the old wood oven. She cooks a standard Nepalese
meal: Dal Bat, rice with lentil soup
and various vegetables. Following local
custom, we eat with our fingers. Three fingers
and the thumb of the right hand are used to
mix and pick up the rice and sauce and bring
it to the mouth, where the food is flicked in
with the back of the thumb.
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